Osteria at Stefano Lubiana | Derwent Valley
David and I recently celebrated our wedding anniversary. The occasion called for a special lunch and was the perfect excuse to finally visit the Osteria at Stefano Lubiana.
The Osteria has been on our to-do list for a long time and for one reason or another we’ve never made it there.
Stefano Lubiana is a vineyard close to New Norfolk in the Derwent Valley. It’s owned by fourth generation winemaker Steve Lubiana and his wife Monique. Together with winemaker Thomas New they create beautiful, award winning biodynamic wines including sumptuous, silky reds and divine whites.
The vineyard has been operating since 1990 and in 2014 they opened the Osteria (an italian term for restaurant) to the facilities. For Steve the Osteria was a natural fit. His grandmother owned an Osteria in Italy and it was always his intention to serve local, fresh, and organic produce.
The Osteria’s menu is small and seasonal. The vegetables served are grown in the onsite, biodynamic garden and are either served fresh or cured, pickled or as jams. If ingredients can’t be grown in the garden they are sourced from local, organic suppliers.
For our special lunch David and I shared a gorgeous antipasto platter and warm olives to start and ordered:
- Lingua Di Manzo - Charcoal grilled beef tongue, farro, prune and onion chutney
- Pesce - Poached, line caught striped trumpeter, nut ricotta, turnip, balsamic
On the side was a beautiful pumpkin dish to share. Dessert consisted of the most delicious liquorice tart with a granita garnish and a cheese plate.
Head chef at the Osteria is Claudio Guidetti who hails from Turin, Northern Italy. His team consists of Estonian born Kaisa Kliimand, who lived and worked in Italy before moving to Australia, and creates all the Osteria’s pastry and desserts, as well as Tasmanian born apprentice chef Lachlan Green.
The Osteria not only creates beautiful, seasonal food, but the venue itself is crazy gorgeous. David and I visited on an overcast, cold, drizzly day and the mediterranean architecture and landscaping transported us somewhere else. There are striking, mass plantings of olive trees, as well as garden beds overflowing with a perfect mix of ornamental plants. The property is set into the foothills above the Derwent River with beautiful views into the hills above and the river below.
If a visit to the Osteria isn’t on the cards for you then I recommend you at least try the wines. For winemakers Steve and Thomas the contribution of the biodynamic process in the cultivation of the fruit connects their wine with an organic cycle. It integrates it with a natural rhythm and builds the wine’s character giving it its own special life force. For the winemakers at Stefano Lubiana biodynamics is an assurance that the winemaking process is not poisoning anything, or anyone, which makes the wine better - kindof like a cosmic karma system.
I can certainly drink to that!
If you are visiting the region and want to stay nearby you could consider Stanton Bed and Breakfast which I've written about previously.